A Few Days in Naples: Grit, Grandeur, and Great Pizza

Last month, we enjoyed a short trip to the vibrant city of Naples. From the moment we arrived, we were captivated by its unique charm — that rare blend of grit and faded grandeur. Naples isn’t your typical picture-postcard destination; it’s a city to be embraced, full of fascinating history, contradictions and indomitable spirit.

The Spirit of Naples

Nestled beneath the ever-watchful Mount Vesuvius, Naples has weathered centuries of challenges — famine, plagues, poverty, and the devastation of World War II. The city was bombed more than 200 times, yet during the Four Days of Naples, locals rose up together to drive out the Nazi occupation. That same resilience still pulses through the city today, perhaps most vividly felt during a football match!

A City for the Locals

Unlike many Italian cities I’ve visited, Naples feels deeply for the locals. Even as tourists pass through on their way down the coast, the city’s heart beats to its own rhythm. We wined and dined throughout the city and found everything both fairly priced and absolutely delicious. The famous Neapolitan pizza did not disappoint, alongside local specialty, Spaghetti alla Nerano (pasta with courgettes),

A Day by the Sea

We spent a “quieter day” at the beach club Bagno Sirena — easily reached by metro to Mergellina. The sea was still warm in late October, and we bobbed around in the water, looking at the volcano in the distance. Lunch brought another discovery: the Tartufo, my ice-cream cake of dreams.

Football and Fierce Devotion

In Naples, football is unavoidable. Every street is lined with Napoli flags and tributes to Diego Maradona, whose legend looms large across the city. His flaws seem to have been completely forgiven; here, he’s treated as a god. Watching a Napoli game in a local bar was wonderfully entertaining — no need to pay for stadium tickets when the streets themselves come alive with every goal.

Getting Around

Travelling around Naples is surprisingly easy and inexpensive. The Metro is cheap and efficient, but for a bit of fun, we hired a scooter for a day and whipped through cobbled streets strung with washing and blue-and-white flags. For something less hair-raising, you can also book a Vespa tour — a fantastic way to explore the main sights scattered across the sprawling city.

Where We Stayed

We stayed in a central Airbnb with a beautiful courtyard, a calm refuge from the city’s lively chaos. After a day of wandering through bustling streets and dodging scooters it was the perfect place to unwind.

If you’re looking for a buzzy city break filled with history and high-quality carbs, Naples is a great destination.

You might just need a rest when you get home.

A Winter trip to Marrakech (and a boost of serotonin)

If the grey ceiling that has emerged over England is already getting you down, a winter trip to Marrakech could be the perfect antidote. Within three hours you can arrive in a bejewelled city full of vibrant colour : a complete contrast to London fog, an escape from endless news cycles and the daily humdrum. From market chatter to pyramids of cinnamon and grazing camels, it is hard to believe that this intoxicating city is just a hop, skip and a squeezy-jet from our doorstep.

Last year we travelled to Marrakech for three days in November. We left a light dusting of snow at Bristol airport to arrive in the bustling and humid city. Our taxi driver hailed a porter who loaded our bags into a large wheelbarrow and masterfully navigated his way through the winding streets of the Medina to our Riad. These traditional Moroccan homes are built around a central, inward-facing courtyard with a pool of water to keep everyone cool. My favourite aspect of these buildings is the roof terrace, where you can see as far as the Atlas Mountains and experience the magic of the Call To Prayer.

To be honest, my favourite thing to do in this vibrant city is to wander the Medina and soak up the atmosphere. Snag a table at sunset on the top floor of Cafe de France at and watch the locals set up the huge market Jamaa El Fnaa. From dancers to snake charmers, shoe shiners and fruit sellers, all of life is here. The popular Jardins Marjorelle are beautiful but the secret gardens within the city walls are less crowded and have a certain magical quality to them. These highly decorative spaces are beautifully designed with orangeries, ornate pergolas and fountains for locals to enjoy music and escape the hot, busy city. If you are lucky, you might find some tortoises cooling off in a pool. Visitors are not allowed to enter mosques in Morocco, however the Islamic School ‘Medersa Ben Youssef’ is well worth a visit. Built in the 14th Century, it is known for it’s stunning architecture, zellige tiles and intricate carving.

My favourite meal in Marrakesh included chicken tagine with olives and lemons followed by slices of orange and cinnamon, served on the rooftop of our Riad. We had a lovely time guzzling our way around market stalls and cafes in the city. The Ginger cake and Rose and Cardamom Tea (Stall 61, Jamaa El Fnaa) is not to be missed and La Patisserie des Princes serves up the most delicate French pastries including ‘Opera’ and ‘Mille Feuille’ alongside mint tea, poured from height for optimum aeration. If you are ready for some fancy western cocktails, the impeccably styled El Fenn has a beautiful roof top bar and restaurant. Depending on how sturdy your stomach is feeling, there are plenty of different eating options in Marrakech.

I have to say our little trip last year gave us a good boost to get through the darker months. So why not swap your winter blues for Majorelle blue and book a little trip to this ancient trading city? It’s well worth the short trip in the orange and white tin can