A Few Days in Naples: Grit, Grandeur, and Great Pizza
Sophie Lombardi
Last month, we enjoyed a short trip to the vibrant city of Naples. From the moment we arrived, we were captivated by its unique charm — that rare blend of grit and faded grandeur. Naples isn’t your typical picture-postcard destination; it’s a city to be embraced, full of fascinating history, contradictions and indomitable spirit.
The Spirit of Naples
Nestled beneath the ever-watchful Mount Vesuvius, Naples has weathered centuries of challenges — famine, plagues, poverty, and the devastation of World War II. The city was bombed more than 200 times, yet during the Four Days of Naples, locals rose up together to drive out the Nazi occupation. That same resilience still pulses through the city today, perhaps most vividly felt during a football match!
A City for the Locals
Unlike many Italian cities I’ve visited, Naples feels deeply for the locals. Even as tourists pass through on their way down the coast, the city’s heart beats to its own rhythm. We wined and dined throughout the city and found everything both fairly priced and absolutely delicious. The famous Neapolitan pizza did not disappoint, alongside local specialty, Spaghetti alla Nerano (pasta with courgettes),
A Day by the Sea
We spent a “quieter day” at the beach club Bagno Sirena — easily reached by metro to Mergellina. The sea was still warm in late October, and we bobbed around in the water, looking at the volcano in the distance. Lunch brought another discovery: the Tartufo, my ice-cream cake of dreams.
Football and Fierce Devotion
In Naples, football is unavoidable. Every street is lined with Napoli flags and tributes to Diego Maradona, whose legend looms large across the city. His flaws seem to have been completely forgiven; here, he’s treated as a god. Watching a Napoli game in a local bar was wonderfully entertaining — no need to pay for stadium tickets when the streets themselves come alive with every goal.
Getting Around
Travelling around Naples is surprisingly easy and inexpensive. The Metro is cheap and efficient, but for a bit of fun, we hired a scooter for a day and whipped through cobbled streets strung with washing and blue-and-white flags. For something less hair-raising, you can also book a Vespa tour — a fantastic way to explore the main sights scattered across the sprawling city.
Where We Stayed
We stayed in a central Airbnb with a beautiful courtyard, a calm refuge from the city’s lively chaos. After a day of wandering through bustling streets and dodging scooters it was the perfect place to unwind.
If you’re looking for a buzzy city break filled with history and high-quality carbs, Naples is a great destination.
You might just need a rest when you get home.
